The Highwayman opened in 2007 and was the second in the Ribble Valley Inns (RVI) portfolio of gastro pubs embodying Nigel Haworth’s signature approach to real, local, seasonal food and premium pub dining experiences. Its superb location and quality food (the best of Lancashire, Cumbria and Yorkshire) made it an instant hit but after seven years, and a £200k refurbishment, The Highwayman rides again under the expert hands of new chef, Jason ‘Bruno’ Birbeck.
Bruno (as he’s known in the industry) trained at Kendal Catering College and in Switzerland, his career has since taken him to some of the most prestigious kitchens all over the world. He returned to the Lake District, ‘cutting his teeth’ at Langdale Hotel and Country Club and it was here that he met Nigel Haworth and Craig Bancroft (Co- founders of Northcote and RVI), who offered him a job at the Michelin-starred Northcote.
At Northcote, under the expert wing of Executive Chef Nigel Haworth, he progressed to Sous Chef and also won the American Express UK Young Chef of the Year Award. At this stage, highly experienced in fine dining cookery, Bruno moved on to The Samling at Ambleside, where he was influential in their being awarded their first Michelin star. Experience at Hipping Hall and The Torridon, in the Highlands of Scotland, followed but with a growing family he was keen to return to his Cumbrian roots; Nigel saw this as an opportunity to offer the reins of his newly refurbished Highwayman to this highly accomplished chef.
Nigel Haworth commented “It’s an exciting time for The Highwayman. We’ve been working on this development behind the scenes for a while, and I’m really looking forward to unveiling what Bruno’s created here. It’s the first time I’ve handed over the reigns that bit more, and I’m really proud of what’s come out of this.”
The Highwayman reopened at the end of June and Marketing Lancashire was invited to one of the press events to taste Bruno’s new menu, which reflects the values and standards of RVI but has a definite Bruno ‘twist’.
I didn’t go for the Flookburgh Shrimp Porridge but my fellow guests who chose this dish were ‘ummming’ and ‘ahhing’ from the very first velvety mouthful. “Think of it as a kind of risotto’ explained our host Craig Bancroft, who went on to extol the health benefits of using oatmeal as a substitute for rice. I went instead for the Lancaster Smokehouse Smoked Salmon, Ravenglass Crab and pickled vegetables – and this was certainly a feast for the eyes as well as a delicious medley of local seafood.
Pigs Head, on the main menu, is described as one of Bruno’s signature dishes (inherited from his Nan) It’s actually mostly the deliciously tender pig’s cheek, served with crispy black pudding, mash, cabbage and pickled apples one of the table’s favourites. Equally impressive was the Pan Fried Hake Fillet, with brown shrimp and potted shrimp fish sauce – just don’t be worried about asking for a spoon – you don’t want to miss any of that delicious sauce! Of course many RVI favourites are still on the menu – just look out for the extra Bruno magic.
As well as a superb cheese board (you’ll need to leave quite a bit of space for this generous selection) we were offered Emma’s Sticky Toffee Pudding, Sheep Dip Crème Brûlée (obviously NOT actual sheep dip), Shortbread & Raspberries, but as it’s rhubarb season (so it would taste amazing) and I guessed it would look very pretty I went for the Poached Rhubarb, Lemon Curd, Meringue, Rhubarb Sorbet – and as it stands, this new Highwayman classic – delivers on every count!
Anna Izza
The Highwayman is located in Nether Burrow, just 20 mins scenic drive from Lancaster (M6 Junction 34) with superb views en route of the Lune Valley through Hornby in the direction of Kirby Lonsdale.
Click here for ideas on things to see and do when planning your visit to The Highwayman
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